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Hi

Remember you have also this mod to improve Phi2, in compatibility with ROM/EPROMs: please read CEO-MAG no 288, april 2014, pp. 8-13.

Enjoy!

Hi

For ROM/EPROM + Microdisc compatibility and Phi2 improvement, please also read CEO-MAG no 288, april 2014, pp. 8-13.

Wow! Bravo!

Dbug wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 19, 2018 6:51 pm

A decap of the ULA would be awesome, specially if we can reverse the logic accurately.
Who know, maybe we would discover some traces of some features they were planning to add but did not have time to

Do you know Deus Ex Silicium?
www.dexsilicium.com

An example: trying to merged RGB outputs to one input: - Red level #1: 100% of the signal. - Red level #2: 0% of the signal. - Red level #3: 0% of the signal. - Red level #4: 0% of the signal. Desired output for Red is 25% of the level? Is there a simply analog electronic schema to connect these inp...

Hi,
Still thinking about hardware mods...
How did you merged the RGB signals?
Do you have a schematic?

Please find below an idea to test... with a NAND gate and an input to Vcc to replace a NOT gate --> Only needs 2 packages DIL14. The 3 last gates delays (3x10ns) the clk, to try to have a better synchro. between the clks (perhaps it is better with less or more gates...). I do not know if it works, n...

8) This is the kind of simple circuit I thought, to avoid something complicated like a complete PID controller. I will study the practical application on real Orics. But in your opinion is it possible to simplify again? (eg if you remove the LS04 between the 86 and the NAND, and replace the NAND by ...

@iss: nice work! - Thierry suggest to keep a common 12mhz clock, and just to throttle the secondary ULA until it get synced to the first one On my side I am looking for a simple schematic to do that; Below some links to clarify what I am looking for (in the electronic world): French: https://fr.wiki...

Thierry

Yep, I missed that offsets are multiple of 83.3ns. Mike Brown's solutions is cool and I hope it will work. ... but having 2 equal ULA's is good idea too ;). EDIT: Dbug, which signals are actually on the scope? (I thought it's 12MHz, but the shape reminds the famous F2) Good question! Yes this is th...

Dbug wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 05, 2017 7:13 am

... you need to use the right firmware, else the display stops working

My Cumulus (PCB ID #43) has a black dot on the PCB above the 3 buttons, so a S1D15G10 display.

If there is a new update of the firmware, I can try it too!

But I'd try to produce a version of the game which simply bypasses the bug, because not everyone is going to update their firmware... And, besides, who would do it? :wink: The Cumulus firmware update seems easy to do? www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoVpMwnYQIY Is there a link for dowloading the latest upd...

I have a HxC (drive A) and real drives (B, C) to generate real floppy discs (3 or 3,5 inches)
On PC (Win7), convert .dsk to .hfe, then copy hfe to SD card.
On real Oric boot on hfe then backup...